How It Shows Up
The door won't budge, or it lurches up a few inches and stops. Sometimes you hear a bang from the garage first, usually a dry pop like a car backfiring one street over, and after that the opener runs but the door doesn't move. That's a torsion spring letting go. On older extension spring setups, you'll see one side of the door hang lower than the other, or a cable jump its drum.
San Rafael's housing stock skews old for this kind of hardware. Median build year here lands around 1960, with most of the 38 named areas we cover built out between 1938 and 1996, and a lot of that stock still runs the original torsion or extension setups from whenever the door was last replaced, not necessarily when the house was built. A 50-plus-year-old spring has usually done its 10,000 cycles and then some, and it doesn't give much warning before it snaps.
We also see the slow version: a door that's gotten noticeably heavier to lift by hand over a few months. That's a spring losing tension gradually rather than snapping outright, and it's just as much a repair call as the loud one, even though nobody panics about it the same way.
How We Fix It
We match the spring to the door's weight and cycle count, not just swap in whatever's closest in size. Torsion springs get wound to the door's actual drop, and we check both springs on a double door even if only one broke, because the other one is on the same clock and usually fails within weeks if you leave it.
We inspect cables, drums, and the center bearing plate at the same visit. A spring rarely fails alone on a door that's been running 30-plus years; the cable's often frayed at the drum, or the bearing's dry and grinding. Replacing the spring and ignoring a worn cable just moves the next call a few months down the road.
One limitation worth saying plainly: if the torsion shaft itself is bent or the drums are cracked, that's not a spring job anymore, and we'll tell you before we start rather than after. On a door that old, sometimes the honest answer is that spring repair buys you a few more years and a full opener or track replacement is the better money.
Why This Fails Locally
Marin's mild temperate climate doesn't throw the freeze-thaw cycles that wreck hardware fast in colder regions, and that's actually part of the problem here: springs on San Rafael doors often run their full mechanical lifespan instead of getting replaced early for weather damage, so by the time they go, they go hard and all at once rather than showing rust-and-crack warning signs first.
Across the service area, from Santa Venetia and Greenbrae through Kentfield, Fairfax, and out to Lucas Valley-Marinwood, most garages were built in that same 1960s-70s window, which means a lot of original or first-replacement hardware is aging out on a similar timeline right now. It's not one bad batch of springs; it's thousands of garages built in the same two decades hitting the same mechanical age at roughly the same time.
Median household income across the area sits around $137,000, and with that comes a reasonable number of two-car households where the garage door cycles daily, sometimes twice a day per vehicle. More cycles on 50-year-old torsion hardware is a straightforward way to end up with a snapped spring on a quiet Tuesday morning.
Can You Do This Yourself
Don't. Torsion springs are wound under several hundred pounds of tension, and the tools to wind and unwind them safely aren't something most garages have lying around. Extension springs are less violent to work with but still not forgiving if the safety cable's missing or frayed. This is one of the few jobs in a house where a mistake sends a bar through a windshield or a hand to the ER, not just a redo.
What you can safely check yourself: whether the door is binding on a track versus a spring issue at all. Pull the emergency release, lift the door by hand partway, and let go. If it drops like dead weight, that's spring tension gone, not a track or opener problem, and it's worth knowing before you call so you're not paying for a diagnostic visit you could've skipped.
Beyond that, leave the spring itself alone. On a door built when most of this area's housing went up, the hardware underneath is often original enough that nobody local stocks an exact match off the shelf, and that's a sourcing problem better left to someone who does this daily.
Frequently asked questions
Why did my garage door spring snap with no warning?
Torsion springs are rated for a set number of open-close cycles, often around 10,000, and most fail at the end of that life rather than wearing visibly first. Given that a lot of San Rafael's housing dates to the 1960s and 70s, a spring reaching end-of-life now is common, not a sign you did anything wrong.
Do you repair both extension and torsion springs?
Yes. Older homes in this area sometimes still run extension spring setups rather than torsion, especially on doors that haven't been upgraded since the original build. We work on both and will tell you if your current setup is outdated enough that a switch to torsion makes sense.
Is it ever not worth repairing the spring?
Sometimes. If the torsion shaft is bent or the drums are cracked along with the spring, you're looking at more than a spring job, and on an older door it can make more sense to replace the hardware outright instead of patching it piece by piece. We'll tell you that upfront, not after the invoice.
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